As the world observes the International Day for the Elimination of Racial Discrimination on 21 March, the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP), the Secretariat of the Minamata Convention and the Secretariat of the Global Mercury Partnership, are releasing a set of messages for public use and engagement that highlight the urgent need to stop the production and use of skin-lightening products containing mercury and other hazardous substances.
Despite being regulated by the Minamata Convention, mercury-added products continue flooding markets as many countries face challenges in enforcing the regulations. Stronger and effective policies and legal frameworks on a national level, particularly to control online sales, are essential, say experts. The efforts must also focus on destigmatizing darker skin color and holding companies accountable for promoting harmful beauty standards, they add.
All around the world, from Asia to Africa to Europe, the pressure to have lighter skin is considered deeply rooted in beauty standards, and often shapes self-worth, social interactions and opportunities. Some observers say this colourism is reinforced by today's social media platforms where the new generations are exposed to unattainable beauty standards from a very young age.
The market for skin-lightening products is growing. The market research firm Fortune Business Insights estimates that the global skin lightening products market, valued at US$9.2 billion in 2023, will grow to US$16.4 billion by 2032.
Skin-lightening products often contain various harmful chemicals like steroids, hydroquinone, and mercury, which pose serious health risks. Mercury exposure can cause skin rashes, scarring, and long-term damage to the nervous system and kidneys. Pregnant women and children are especially vulnerable. The dangers extend beyond direct users – family members can also be exposed through contact with contaminated towels, skin, or even inhaling mercury vapours. Furthermore, when these products wash down drains, they contaminate water supplies affecting entire communities.
Recognizing this challenge, the fifth meeting of the Conference of the Parties to the Minamata Convention (COP-5) in 2023 strengthened the global provisions under the Convention by not allowing any concentration of mercury in cosmetics produced, imported and exported by the Parties of the Convention. This new requirement will come into force on 25 April 2025.
In January 2025, Gabon launched the Libreville Commitment, a regional agreement aimed at removing mercury in skin-lightening products across Africa. This initiative calls for stronger regulations, better enforcement and public education.
"Cosmetics containing mercury are a key example of how the use of mercury impacts people in their everyday lives,” said Monika Stankiewicz, Executive Secretary of the Minamata Convention. “The recent decision under the convention reflects the firm belief that the use of mercury and in fact any other hazardous substance in cosmetics is unacceptable and cannot be allowed to continue."
UNEP is taking an integrated approach to tackle mercury pollution, linking it with public health, and racial discrimination. Through the UNEP-led, Global Environment Facility-funded project "Eliminating Mercury Skin Lightening Products," UNEP is working with the World Health Organization and the governments of Gabon, Jamaica and Sri Lanka to phase out mercury in cosmetics.
The project advocates for stricter regulations, stronger enforcement and training for customs officials. It also engages stakeholders from the Global Mercury Partnership, including the private sector and civil society, to raise awareness about the health risks and address the deep-rooted issues of colourism and racial discrimination that drive demand. Through these efforts, UNEP supports elimination of toxic beauty products and advocating for more inclusive and equitable beauty standards worldwide.
